Tens of thousands of men and women all over the country are now adopting flower arranging as a hobby and in time each one develops his or her own style in perpetrating the subject according to the material available and the purpose for which the design is created.

Even the mood one is in will have a bearing on the final result and this is how it should be, for flower arranging is an expressive art; yet a knowledge of art alone will not suffice.

A sensitive knowledge and love of flowers is vitally important, for it is only when you know the background of your plant material can you sense and be satisfied that a ‘picture’ is just right.

It is by discussion that knowledge is gained and experience passed on and in this, as with all hobbies, progress can only be judged by public exhibition. Perhaps this is where the future lies, for although primarily a domestic hobby no matter how well a subject is practiced in the obscurity of one’s own home, it finally needs public approval.

Britain has for long been famous for her wonderful gardens. Her flower shows are a part of her way of life and it may well be that through the medium of Floral Art Exhibitions that we shall be able to show the World that not only do we know how to grow flowers well, but that we know how to use them in artistic display.

There is a strong fascination in drying, pressing and preserving flowers and leaves, that carries the keen flower arranging enthusiast a step further in the never-ending interest of this artistic hobby. Although we, in Great Britain, are blessed with growing material at almost all times of the year, there are many who live in towns and cities, who, when flowers are expensive during the winter months, find that dry flower arrangements are a very useful standby.

Dry flowers, however, were never meant to take the place of fresh flowers or foliage, but they are certainly timesavers, for they can be made up in advance and brought out only when needed. In most homes, there is nearly always one place where a permanent arrangement of dry material can stand when flowers are scarce or expensive. These arrangements need not be dull. Whereas a few years ago most dry arrangements were made of dried fern and seed heads, today some of the most lovely designs are composed of dried summer flowers, the colours of which can be preserved by hanging them upside down in a dark dry cupboard.

Dry Flower Arrangements Methods

There are four methods of preserving material, and after a little experimenting you will quickly become accustomed to using the one that suits your purpose.

The upside down method

This method of drying is used for flowers such as Delphiniums, Larkspur, Astitbes, Golden Rod, Celosia, Love-lies-Bleeding, Helichrysum, Achillea—and many others. These should be picked just before maturity and hung upside down in small bunches in a dark dry cupboard or attic, preferably where air circulates. The dry atmosphere will absorb any moisture quickly and the darkness will prevent the fading of the colours. Flowers can be left hanging until required. Borax method

The burying in borax method is mostly used for more open flowers such as Canterbury Bells, Pansies, Zinnias, Marguerites, Daffodils, Scabious, forin this manner the form of the flower can be preserved as well as the colour.

You will require a deep box, the bottom of which should be covered with powdered borax. Strip all leaves from the flowers and shorten the stems, then stand them on the borax and continue to put more powder around, under and over the flowers until they are completely covered. Smooth out the petals as you cover them, so as to retain their original shape, and leave in this powder for about three weeks. The powder should then be poured off or removedwith a soft brush very carefully, as the petals will now be rather brittle.

Dry silver sand can also be used for drying flowers in this way, but do make sure the sand and the flowers are dry, otherwise mildew or brown spots will form. Glycerine and water method. Most foliage is preserved by this method and branches of leaves placed in this solution will keep indefinitely.

Wash the leaves to remove dust and split the ends of the stems or branches to allow the solution to be more readily absorbed. Place the material in ajar containing one part glycerine and two parts water which should reach about four inches up the stem. Leave for two or three weeks in a place where air circulates, otherwise the leaves may dry out before the solution reaches the tips. Beech, Laurel, Magnolia, Rhododendron, Camellia, Pittosporum, can all be preserved by this method although the leaves will turn brown. Mottled effects can be obtained if some leaves are removed at the halfway stage, and smaller leaves such as Ivy and Lily of the Valley are better if the whole leaf is submerged.

Pressing method

Ferns and other flat-surfaced leaves are preserved by the pressing between newspaper method, and although done in this manner they remain flat, some very interesting lines and shapes can be retained. Funkia leaves can be folded double and placed between sheets of newspaper, while Iris, Gladioli, Ivy, Raspberry leaves and all ferns can be dried in the same way, although it must be remembered the leaves will be brittle and not pliable as with the Glycerine method. Plenty of newspaper should be used as this will absorb the moisture and some weighty objects such as books should be placed on the top of the pile to ensure even pressure.

The subject of drying material is a vast but very interesting one and can only lightly be touched on in this chapter, but for those who are interested I do advise you to keep your eyes open for all kinds of seed heads and material which will make interesting lines such as dock and dry branches. Do not forget the value of grains and grasses, whilst cones, pods, nuts, fruits, globe artichokes and gourds are excellent for focal interest.

Pussy Willow and Bulrushes dry well if kept out of water and interesting shapes can be obtained with Broom if you wrap it in newspaper and bend it to the desired shape leaving it to dry in this position.

Another item which attracts the keen flower arranger during Autumn and Winter is the dried Hydrangea. These blooms should be left growing until they are fading or past their best. The colour then begins to turn and if they are cut at this stage and placed in about an inch of water, they will slowly dry out as they become deprived of nourishment. Not all Hydrangeas dry alike, so it is as well to attempt a number in order to vary the colouring. These blooms also dry well when hung upside down, but do make sure they are past maturity before picking and not as with flowers of the Delphinium family which are picked for drying before maturity.

Skeletonizing

In Victorian times there was a vogue for ” phantom bouquets ” and these skeletonized leaves are again returning to favour. Certainly they give a delightful touch to a dry arrangement. Magnolia leaves respond well to this treatment, although I have also tried Galax and old Iris leaves, but if you wish to try these you must boil the leaves for thirty minutes in a quart of water to which a teaspoon of soda has been added. After leaving the leaves to cool in the water, they should be spread out on paper and all the fleshy parts should be scraped off with the back of a knife, taking care not to split or tear the leaf. Then place the leaves in some bleach water and leave for an hour, finally rinsing them in clear water.

Finally, wipe them carefully with a soft cloth and then press them between sheets of blotting or newspaper leaving them overnight, weighted down with heavy books. False stems can be wired on and although these leaves last well and keep their shape, they appear very light and airy, and certainly give an ethereal appearance to a dry arrangement.

Clear cut designs and a contrast in forms of materials are two essentials for making successful dry arrangements, and although the subject is endless, the greatest interest is gained by experimenting.